cowlobi.blogg.se - Flirc usb uk

sd 0:0:0:0: Read Capacity(16) failed: Result: hostbyte=0x07 driverbyte=0x00 sd 0:0:0:0: tag#13 uas_zap_pending 0 uas-tag 1 inflight: CMD usb 2-1: USB disconnect, device number 2 scsi 0:0:0:0: Direct-Access JMicron Generic 0209 PQ: 0 ANSI: 6 usb 2-1: Product: USB to ATA/ATAPI Bridge usb 2-1: New USB device strings: Mfr=1, Product=2, SerialNumber=3 usb 2-1: New USB device found, idVendor=152d, idProduct=0578, bcdDevice= 2.09 When looking for a remote to use with a Flirc, make sure it has play and pause buttons.Usb 2-1: new SuperSpeed Gen 1 USB device number 2 using xhci_hcd.I run LMS on a dedicated RPi4B with attached SSD.In the summer here in the UK the Touch Pro machine will definitely need the fan.A RPi4B is overkill for a pure player and runs hotter than a RPi3.It is very easy to set up the WiFi just after you download piCorePlayer to the SD card. Notice that the RPi is held in place by a piece of plastic that came with the SmartiPi. In this case I am using the HiFiBerry DAC+ card with right-angle phono adapters picked up from eBay.

The Flirc V2 USB receiver does not show from the front making for a very good solution. It is shorter and hides really well behind this case. It uses a RPi3A+ which is a very overlooked option. This one is a Touch 1 case I happened to pick up second hand. SmartiPi Touch 1 with RPi3A+ and HiFiBerry DAC+ My understanding is that a RPi4B is much better for a USB DAC than any other. This player is in my office and I don’t mind that it doesn’t look so good because the sound is amazing. Since these photos were taken I have run a USB extension cable out of the bottom with the Flirc V2 receiver hidden in the hifi cabinet out of sight. Look carefully and you will notice that I have mounted the RPi deep inside the machine away from the sides. I don’t mind because I upgrade the software in place.

Once any of these machines are built the SD card is hard to access.

My advice - buy an official power supply with switch built in. This combination resulted in a voltage drop enough to give me continuous warnings.

I added a switch to the power cable and then added a right-angle adapter.

You can easily use a RPi3A+ if you just want wifi.

SmartiPi supply an optional metal plate for the bottom to counter balance the display.

I cut holes in the back of the case using a cheap, Dremel-style, tool.

I get most parts from The Pi Hut and the little bits from eBay.

The standard size back of the case is all you need for a standard HAT.

Since the photos were taken I have added the fan. You will have to dismantle the whole thing to put them in afterwards.

Install the power cables for the fan to the display (step 1 of the SmartiPi instructions) even if you do not intend to use them immediately.

Here are the lessons I learned from this one:

USB2 Extension cable to run Flirc outside.

JustBoom Digi Hat - I run digital output on this player.

Add-on switch to that power supply so I can turn it off easily (see notes below).

The layout allows for everything to be hidden and adapted to any combination of hardware. It is easily the best looking and most suitable case to make a great looking player. This player uses the latest model, the SmartiPi Touch Pro. SmartiPi Touch Pro with RPi3B+ and JustBoom Digi Hat My goal is simple, to build a player that I do not have to apologise for. There are 3 different players shown here and the various options and tradeoffs are discussed along with shopping lists. This page shows various recipes for using the official touch display and SmartiPi cases from SmartiCase to make a really great looking player.